I joined Siroune and her extended family from France to go to Etchmiadzin today. The Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin, or the “Vatican of Armenia” and three nearby churches are all UNESCO sites, We visited them all today. Etchmiadzin was built at the turn of the fourth century over a pagan site, and is the oldest cathedral in the world. We hopped on the mashrutka at the Matenataran, and arrived at Etchmiadzin 1/2 an hour later, ready for badarak (mass) at 11.
The cathedral is beautiful and unique, perhaps due to the many different styles it incorporates over centuries of neglect, plundering and considerable restoration. There are Byzantine, Greek, Persian, and Tibetan elements, and various styles of Armenian architectural styles have been incorporated over time. The frescoes are stunning, and I am glad I got to see this after the 12 years of renovations (completed in 2024). Photography is not permitted inside.
I found it interesting that the choir is positioned on the main level (there is nowhere else for them above), and that many of the songs were unfamiliar to me. I learned that there are two two main musical interpretations of the badarak: one is that of Komitas (which I am used to) and the other is that of Yekmalyan. Additionally, Catholicos Vasken I commissioned the Khorenian Badarak by Khoren Mekanejian who served as choirmaster at Etchmiadzin. Perhaps what I heard drew on all three of these musical interpretations.
Afterwards, we walked over to St. Gayane church, a well-preserved example of 7th century medieval domed basilicas. We parted ways with Siroune’s family, as they chose to return to Yerevan. Siroune quickly procured a ride for us to St. Hripsime Church, a short drive away. (Both St. Gayane and St. Hripsime were martyrs at the hand of King Tiridates.) Excavations reveal that St. Hripsime may also have been built over a pagan temple.
Our last stop was Zvartnots. This was the site of a very interesting circular architectural masterpiece of the 7th century. The museum explains in detail the architects who researched its structure. It is a “tetraconch” design (Greek cross) with three levels and a dome. There are 32 columns in total, a number of which have been restored for us to see today. (No photos, as my battery was very low by this point.)
I found some quince trees on the grounds and tried one, but it wasn’t quite ripe enough. We then visited a grocery outlet and purchased some snacks to keep us going until our return to Yerevan. It was even hotter in Etchmiadzin than in Yerevan, so I was glad to return to my air-conditioned room.
