Marina and I joined a group tour with Yerani Travel to see some iconic Armenian sites: Garni, Geghart, and the Symphony of Stones, all a little southeast of Yerevan in the Kotayk province. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable and passionate about Yerevan, Armenia, and Armenian culture. She shared that Armenians are the only people whose mythology features a God of Hospitality, highlighting how Armenians will always care for those seeking refuge, and never letting anyone go hungry. She also offered a critique of Soviet urban planning for building the city around factories. However , she praised Tamanyan for his vision designing the Cascade as a centrepiece for Yerevan in 1924.
We were fortunate to have the clearest day of my trip to date, especially since our first stop was at the Arch of Charents and the view of Mount Ararat. With the mountains in perfect focus and the green valleys below, we couldn’t capture the full feeling on camera. (Nor could we capture the arch which frames the view, due to the constant parade of people through the arch!)
We then made our way to Garni in the Kotayk Province. Garni’s pagan temple was built in 77 CE and dedicated to Mihr, the Armenian sun god. It is a Roman -influenced temple with 24 Ionic columns, set against a dramatic backdrop of the Azat River and Gegham mountains. The site also has a Roman bath with mosaic stone and has been recently approved as a UNESCO site due to its unique position as the most significant pre-Christian monument in Armenia.
Next, we visited the “Symphony of Stones” so called because of the thousands of basalt rock formations that look like pipe organs rhythmically lining the gorge walls. They were formed as a result of a volcanic eruption 127,000 years ago!
Very close by is the Geghard Monastery, but we first stopped for a lavash-baking demonstration and lunch. Two women sat at a tonir, with one preparing the round balls of dough for the first stretch, and then throwing it to the second woman for a secondary stretch before it is thrown against the wall of the tonir. The bread bakes for about 20 seconds, and is then lifted off the walls ready for consumption.
Luckily for us, the restaurant for this demonstration was also our destination for lunch. Geghard Restaurant’s dramatic backdrop of the gorge is spectacular. We could have sat there for hours, but had to content ourselves with a shorter lunch (also very tasty, and of course, including the fresh lavash).
Finally, we arrived at Geghard Monastery. Somehow, I had imagined something a little different from the reality, with a more expansive outer monastery complex carved into the rocks. But I also didn’t expect the very fascinating and beautiful interior. Apparently they created the church by digging down the cave, effectively hollowing it out and building in reverse. The Avazan Cave Church and the upper Jhamatun (Tomb Chapel) was completed by master stonemasons and architects (precision was essential) over a period of 45 years, from 1240s to 1288 CE. The acoustics are incredible.
After walking around the grounds, Marina and I bought some chir (dried fruits), and we all headed back to Yerevan. Boris picked us up and drove us to the condo where he and Marina live. We sat on the balcony while I enjoyed their hospitality and the view of Ararat!
(Making Lavash)
https://vimeo.com/1232932285?fl=ip&fe=ec
