I settled into my new digs today at the ICA Nest Art residency. I unpacked, did laundry, set up my desk, and organized my to-do list. Then, I ate a few figs from the gardenš, scooted away the cat from the door, and left for town. Around the corner is the best bakery ever, so I bought some lavash and a gata. Then, a quick scouting mission at the grocery store. And then into the Bahremagutyun metro.
I didn’t really have a plan today other than just strolling. Yerevan is really a great walking city. There is a lot to see and do, and many parks to walk through on the way. I began my day with something easy and touristy: the Vernissage market, open every day but with more stalls on the weekend.
I want to purchase a duduk and began my search there. Vendors do have some higher quality duduks, but after some discussion at a few stalls, I didn’t have the confidence to purchase one there quite yet. But I did learn that I want a duduk in the key of A (most common for deep melancholic sound the duduk is known for) and a soft reed mouthpiece (best for beginners and easier on the lips!). There are a few professional shops in the city that I will try out first.
I also happened on a lovely woman selling her “Janyak”, which is a centuries old craft of tying thread into intricate knotwork patterns. Girls were taught how to make janyaks for their dowry. Post 1915, girls and women made these patterns and marketed them to survive. Of course, I had to buy one. I will return next weekend , as the artist wants to show me a book!
Next stop: the Kond neighborhood. It was a 30 minute walk through more parks and an underground walkway with the Yerevan supermarket. I did some of my best grocery shopping there, and was delighted to find the pistachio spread I enjoyed at my hotel in Gyumri.
Kond is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Yerevan, situated higher up in the Northeast part of the city. There are some very incongruous large buildings going up, standing next to the low-lying residences and narrow walkways of the old quarter. Unfortunately, preservation of this quarter does not seem to be a priority. Some laneways are very quaint, with well-maintained homes. Other laneway walls are beautified with murals and colourful graffiti. Still other laneways are neglected and in complete disrepair.
The highlight of Kond for me was Surp Hovhaness Church, built in the 15th century and rebuilt after an earthquake in 1679. The many beautiful 16th century khatchkars decorate the garden overlooking the Hrazdan gorge below.
Evening was beginning to set in, and I briefly considered walking down to the gorge, then wisely decided to head home instead. The closest metro was Marshal Baghramanyan, so I headed in that direction. Just outside this station is Lover’s Park, a very sweet and well-used oasis. (There was a brilliant initiative to revive the green spaces in the city with parks about 10 years ago.)
Back in my own neighborhood, I picked up a bottle of Areni wine, some fruits and vegetables from local vendors, and retired to my balcony for a delicious evening!
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