Mythical Homelands

I chose to spend four days in Gyumri, and I am glad I did. Now on my third day, I have had time to wander, observe, and not feel rushed.

I arrived at breakfast this morning to find a table set JUST for me! Apparently, there are no other guests in the hotel, so the buffet was unnecessary. Instead, they set up a private buffet at my table. I had basturma and another kind of cured meat (both really good). I then tried all the cheeses, and ate the sliced peaches. Then some lavash with the amazing pumpkin seed spread, which I sprinkled with pumpkin seeds and peanuts and rolled up in some lavash! I took the 2 boiled eggs and 2 prunes with me for lunch and snacks. Two Americanos later, I left for my urban hike.

This was a walk through Central Park to the Sev Berd or Black Fortress. On the way, “ghushbases” were selling/trading their pigeons (ghush) in cages. Apparently, Gyumri is a hub for pigeon breeding! Hobbyists train their pigeons for competition to see highest or longest flight times, as well as for tumbling (backwards somersaults!).

My walk through Central Park (previously named Gorky Park) was also interesting. Aside from being a very enjoyable green space with walking paths in the city center, it is also home to a number of Soviet era sculptures, an amusement park that has fallen into disuse after the earthquake of 1988, and a central pavilion that was halted mid-construction at the time. The building has not been demolished or rebuilt and stands like Roman ruins, but decorated with graffiti.

After exiting the park, it was a 10 minute walk to the foot of the Mother Armenia statue. Always keeping an eye out for flora and fauna, I spotted a few butterflies en route, and a lizard basking in the sun. Steps leading up are like a template for the structure of The Cascade. There is a great panoramic view of Gyumri from the top. A path leads from there to the black fortress, built after the 1828-29 Turkish invasion, when another attack was deemed imminent. Construction was completed in 1847.

I made my way back to town, meandering through the park and city, and arriving at my hotel for a break. Then, off to AVC language class in Gyumri, which was delightful. It was very relaxed and conversational, which suits my learning style. After class, 8 of us went to a restaurant called Cherkezi Dzor, which is known for bbq’g excellent sturgeon and trout, sourced from their ponds on site. Their honey beer is also delicious, as are their salads and pilafs. It was great sharing a group dinner with some wonderful Gyumri AVC/Birthright folks! Til we meet again!